The cliffs of Jávea are one of its great natural beauties, yet few us ever get the opportunity to see them up close from the sea and to explore their hidden coves and caves.

One way of doing this is to travel by sea kayak, and this is what we two pensionista friends did in September. We joined five foreign tourists on an excursion from Granadella beach organised by Moraira-based company, "Coast Mountain Kayaks".

Our three and a half hour trip took us north of Granadella beach, firstly into the rocky bay of Ambolo and next to the Isla del Descubridor, which has been designated as a conservation microreserve by the Valencia authorities. The wind was in our faces to begin with (making paddling quite hard), but the sea was calm. It was interesting to see the old fishing platforms clinging to the cliff face, and to look up and wonder at the safety of those expensive villas perched so precariously on the cliff tops.

Our first stop was Cova del Llop Marí below the Torre de Ambolo. On drifting gently into the cave through the wide, but shallow entrance, the initial impression was of coolness and calm. High above, hung magnificent stalactites and the only sounds to be heard were our hushed voices, and the regular boom of the sea echoing from some hidden chamber deep within the rock.

According to one of our guides, Buster Smith, the name Llop Marí refers to a legendary sea monster said to destroy fishermen's nets, attack their boats and killing them. It was said that men were not safe from the monster, even on land! In reality, the legendary monster is a monk seal (foca monge) and the hidden meaning of the story demonstrates that it is we humans who are the monsters. We are the ones who destroy the monk seal's habitat, and food resources; who try to kill them and chase them away into the sea, and even there they are not free from danger. 

There are numerous caves named after the Llop Marí (literally sea wolf or sea lion) along the Alicante coast, including a more famous cave on Tabarca island which has a statue dedicated to the legend. Our cave in Xàbia is better known internationally as a major site for "psicobloc" or solo rock climbing above water, the water being the only protection against injury should the climber fall.

After a few minutes of quiet contemplation in the cave, we were off again, through the narrow straits between the mainland and the Isla del Descubridor, then past the Cala de Ambolo. Our other guide, Jack, exclaimed as he spotted dolphins jumping far out to sea, and I saw a sport fisherman on a passing boat catch a good-sized fish.

We then reached the Cabo de la Nao, and the massive Cova dels Orguens (Organ Cave) at its foot. This cave is more difficult to enter, since its entrance is guarded by rocks and narrow channels, but somehow in a kayak you feel at one with the waves and we were carried safely through. The cave has an impressively high roof, but on all sides you can see the evidence of past rocks falls, with great chunks of broken stalactite lying sideways half in, half out of the water.

Buster told us that local watermen refer to the cave simply as the Cova del Nao. They see it as a place of refuge. There are supplies hidden away inside such as food, drink, cooking equipment and firewood for emergencies and when you say that you are heading for the Cabo they know you mean the cave underneath. It can be a very challenging and dangerous place. Since it is the peninsular, it is totally exposed so they always have to be careful paddling there.

We then started back, this time with the wind a little behind us, enjoying the sensation as we squeezed by the Isla del Descubridor once more.  On the way home, we landed in a small cove, almost blocked off from the sea by a huge rock. Here we stopped to eat a snack and cool off in the sea by snorkeling in the crystal clear waters. The only downside was the floating collection of plastic cups and bottles which greeted us as we came to the surface. My thoughts turned to the foreign visitors, and what negative impressions they may have had.

We finally returned to Granadella in time for lunch, having had a 9km excursion; tired, but not exhausted and surprisingly, our arms were not sore the next day.  We have now glimpsed another side of  Xàbia's natural heritage, and enjoyed the peaceful sensation of kayaking. We'll be back. We hope the tourists will be back too.

Suggestions for would be sea kayakers:

a) Take a waterproof camera

b) Take a good supply of drinking water (kayaking in the summer sun is thirsty work, and remember that you are floating on the sea, not cooling off in it!)

c)  Go outside of the high season. The caves are full of jet skis, small boats and noise in the height of summer but kayaking excursions are available all year round, depending upon the weather.

Thanks to Buster and Jack, our hosts from Coast Mountain Kayaks for taking such good care of us. www.coastmountainkayak.com

by Chris Betterton-Jones

"What sets a kayaking expedition apart is that it purifies you more rapidly and inescapably than any other travel. Travel a thousand miles by train and you are a brute; pedal five hundred on a bicycle and you remain basically a bourgeois; paddle a hundred in a kayak and you are already a child of nature"    - Pierre Elliott Trudeau